Pandemic Apparel

How To Clean an Iron.

2011-08-30T16:59:00.000-07:00

Last week I started to clean my iron plate and found an article RealSimple made, but omitted a few of the steps since my iron manual advised against it.

It came out pretty clean, As you can see from the first image, that I doctored (I realized in the middle of cleaning that this would be a good blog post).

How I cleaned my iron:
I used 8 Tbsp Baking Soda & 4 Tbsp Cold Water (its a 2 to 1 ratio).
While the iron was cold I applied the paste with a towel, then I wiped it off with a clean towel. This didn't clean the iron, but it took some of the mineral deposits off.
I then turned the iron ON and set it to HIGH and steam to HIGH. With a damp towel I wiped off the paste. Then, I placed a clean towel on a heat resistant surface, and started squirting it with water and started working the iron back and forth on the towel, using steam.
Some of the iron's steam vents got clogged with the paste. I used a wet cotton swab to clean the baking soda from the vents.

This was no easy task ... It took me a good hour to clean it, but I did it.
Next, I want to start working on the smaller stains with either wax paper or toothpaste. Not sure if this will work, but I found two blogs where people have tried it and worked. I'll keep you posted on the results.

For more information about cleaning your iron check out my old post How to Clean Your Iron

Schmatta - Rags To Riches To Rags

2011-06-09T16:15:00.001-07:00

I remember seeing a preview of the Schmatta - Rags to riches to rags documentary on HBO.com and was waiting for it to air or for the DVD to be released. I figured that HBO would included it on the HBO GO app, but they didn't.

After looking for this documentary for some time now I discovered this link someone had posted on a forum. It downloads pretty quickly and is of good quality.

The documentary has interesting facts regarding the garment industry in New York. Since I'm from LA I'm more interested in our history, never the less it was informative.

19th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume and Design Exhibition @ FIDM

2011-02-14T15:46:00.001-08:00

Saturday, February 05, 2011, was the opening of the 19th annual art of motion picture costume and design Exhibition @ FIDM. Right after parking we made a B line for the exhibition. I love costume design and nothing gives me grater pleasure than to see these wonderful costumes in person. I have often thought about working at a museum, but how does one get started?

Enough about me ...

Here are a few pictures of the costumes. I took about 140 pictures, but I only found 12 that I wanted to show you.

The exhibition was in a Z pattern, which was fun to walk around.

While watching Burlesque ... I noticed that some of the scenes look like Cabaret. The costumes and musical numbers were pure candy, but the story line sucked.

On a bathroom break, I found the famous Dior dress displaced in a glass case. Across from that was a wall show casing a few pictures and designs. They always have the best displays. I remember when I attended FIDM they had a new display on each floor, every week. I miss those days, going in early or staying late just to walk around wishing I could touch the outfits behind the glass cases. Memories :) Oh, They also had a display of men's accessories and perfumes in a small room off to the right of the elevator. I didn't take any pictures, didn't know if I was aloud. I should have taken at lest one ... Oh well, next time.

Here is a blurred picture of the party from the outside.

Oh, and I found me a celebrity, Nick Verreos. He was there last year as well. Didn't say "Hi", although now that I think of it, I should have.

Sorry this post is long over due, I'm just trying to finish a few things before I get into filming some tutorials. As for the new tutorial, I'm having trouble with the voice over part. It's hard to do everything without any help. TTFN

Fashion Week

2011-01-21T10:38:00.001-08:00

I've updated the calendar on my vimeo group "DIY Sewing" to show the dates for fashion week around the world. Enjoy!

Update on Next Tutorial

2010-11-09T16:55:00.001-08:00

I've been wanting to do a video tutorial for some time, but with work and lack of natural light in my studio I've been putting it off. I might do a few short tutorial on hand sewing. Which I've been wonting to do for a long time now. What I really wanted to show you are some tailors techniques for hand sewing, but I haven't been able to find the proper information over the internet. This means a trip downtown to the BIG library ... hmmmm. So what I'll do is make a tutorial on basic techniques.

If you have any request about hand sewing please let me know and I'll include them in my tutorial.

Creating a Sleeve for your DressForm

2010-10-20T16:01:00.000-07:00

I've been debating on making this post. In the end I think it would be easier to create a blog entry than to make a video tutorial.

I few weeks ago I purchase this "Draping" book which I've been trying to buy for some time now. I really goes into detail on the history of draping and how it all started. Which my school failed to teach us.

Okay ... its time for the draping part of this tutorial.

[I would like to add that this book deals with CM not INCHES so if you don't have a measuring tape with CM on it you'll need to do some converting here is the formula:

cm x 0.39* = in
in x 2.54 = cm

*Shown as 0.39 after rounding to the nearest hundredth (0.3937008).]

You'll need the following measurements: (size 6 US)
• Upper arm width (27cm)
• Elbow width (23cm)
• Wrist width (16cm)
• Arm length (61cm)
• Lower arm length (25cm)
• Arm hole circumference (40cm)

Supplies:
• Muslin Fabric
• Cardboard
• Poly-Fil
• Pins
• Rulers: L-Ruler, French Curve, Clear Ruler
• Thread: Black, Red, White
• Needle (for hand sewing)
• Sewing Machine
• Iron

Step 1: The book just tells you to draw in the lines from the image onto the fabric. I had to decipher the book which took a long time. They may have left some stuff out when translating the book or it didn't translate well into english. [For this tutorial I'll be making the right sleeve, if you want the left sleeve just mirror steps 3-7]

Step 2: make sure you have at least 1/2 inch of seam allowance around the rectangle then join the end seams, folding S.A. under and pinning. Put a ruler between the fabric, this will make it easier to pin.

Step 3: Go 2cm in at the Elbow (measuring from left to right).The book just tells you to draw in the lines from the image onto the fabric. I had to decipher the book which took a long time. They may have left some stuff out when translating the book or it didn't translate well into english. [For this tutorial I'll be making the right sleeve, if you want the left sleeve just mirror steps 3-7]

Step 4: Match up the following points: Elbow, Wrist, & Half of wrist measurement (use an L-Ruler).

Step 5: a.) Then match up the following points: Upper Arm, Elbow at the 2cm point, and at Wrist (see drawing for details). b.) Then draw a parallel line 2cm away from the line you just finish drawing.

Step 6: Finally measure the Upper Arm, Elbow & Wrist and divide by 2, then connect these points (This will be the "Inner Sleeve Seam").

Step 7: Flip the fabric and transfer or measure again using step 3-6 omitting part b in step 5.

Step 8: Make sure you have 1/2 inch seam allowance all the way around & cut out.

Step 9: Now its time to sew. Using RED thread, stitch the following points: Upper Arm, Elbow, Center Line/Grain Line. Stitch each line twice.

Step 10: Using BLACK thread, stitch all of the Black Dashes indicated in the image below. Stitch each line twice.

Step 11: Create the "Wrist and Arm Plate". a.) First make an oval for the wrist that measures (16cm), then make another one tracing off the armhole of the dressform (40cm). b.) The plates are made from cardboard and lined with muslin fabric, hand sewn closed. Letters A-C shows you how to attach the lining to the cardboard for the "Wrist Plate" & D is the "Arm Plate" using the same method.

Step 12: a.) Sew the seam, the fish eye dart, the wrist dart, and cap dart using a sewing machine.

b.) And then sew the bottom wrist by hand, fill with poly-fil and attach the armhole plate by hand. Note: When stuffing the sleeve I really packed it in, because the one I made in school slowly got softer and softer the more I used it. I also copied the triangle style from the original sleeve. I just traced the shoulder marking the shoulder seam and then draw a kind of triangle. Then I sandwiched it between the arm plate and sleeve, then I hand sewed it closed.

When attaching it to your dressform make sure that the center line/grain line is straight and matching up with the side seam. If they match up you know your sleeve is aligned properly.

Hope this helps, sorry I didn't go into more detail. I didn't want to write a novel. But if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'll try to answer them as best as I can.

The next Sleeve I make I will not put cardboard on the arm plate, because it doesn't sit right on my dressform. I will also make the triangle longer.

Documentary Update & Stuff

2010-09-15T22:01:00.001-07:00

Little update ... I've been trying to keep up with fashion week and all of that fashion programing on the Sundance Channel. And I finally found time to do some research, so I'll have a new tutorial up very soon.

In the mean while, I want to share my Documentary review. I watched the "The September Issue" not that exciting, but I found out of about the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, which took me to the "Seamless" documentary about this awards program. I guess since they are giving away $200,000 you have to be bankable. In other viral videos I found out that if the Fashion World has a president its Anna Wintour, she can make or break your career. I've known about her and others, even before I started at FIDM, it just seems so surreal to me that one person has so much pull with the marketing aspect of this industry. I've never realized it before or never wanted to admit to my self, but its true.

Next!!!, "Unzipped", I didn't enjoy it much and it was mostly black and white. Some parts of it was fun to watch, but as a whole they could have done better. Not much of the behind of the scene that I was looking for.

"Eleven Minutes" I don't think I listed it in my last entry. But I found it to be very depressing.

"The Secret World of Haute Couture" that was interesting to see some of the people that buy these garments and the secrecy behind it all. To bad it was filmed as SD. I'm so used to seeing thing in HD that I sometimes forget the poor quality of SD. When watching anything that has to do with fashion I want to see every little detail as if I was filming it myself.

"Signe Chanel" I watched this documentary about Lagerfeld & Chanel a long time ago. It was nice to go back and review it again. This is by far one of the best documentaries of Haute Couture. They don't explain what they are doing or why, but you get to see them in acting and pick up little details. The "Valentino: The Last Emperor" also is good to watch. If you watch the DVD they have extended scenes of them creating one of the garments. His personal life doesn't interests me as much, but I love to see the garments being constructed.

I got inspired to create new garments and also try to create an Haute Couture gown. All sewn by hand and if I have time I'll maybe add some embroidery. I might not finish this project by the end of the year, but its worth trying. Even if its just to say that "I made this Haute Couture Gown all by myself".

I almost forgot about "The Day Before" now this was fascinating to watch. Some of the episodes didn't have much to cover, so they added fluff to make it more entertaining. But others gave you a real picture of what happens before the fashion show and how many pieces get cancelled or finished a second before the model goes on the runway. It made me take a step back at how I create garments. I always think I'm doing something wrong or that I'm a failure if it doesn't come out looking right the first time around. But what I discovered is that some garments are not right and some just need more tweaking. Also that it's ok to make mistakes once in a while, thats how we learn.

I think I covered everything I wanted to cover. TTFN

Fashion Documentaries

2010-09-01T11:09:00.001-07:00

Yesterday I was doing some research and I stumbled across www.fashion-gorgeois.com. These tutorials are worth watching. I learned some things and others I already knew. But, having designer share ideas or the way they work can help others learn. I've always been interested in watching how other designers work. By watching them even if they don't tell you how they are doing whatever it is that they are doing, one can get a general idea on how something is made. (Wondering if that makes sense :/ )

Here's a list of the recent documentaries I've been watching:
Valentino: The Last Emperor
Lagerfeld Confidential
The September Issue
Unzipped
Seamless
Starz Inside: Fashion Film
The Secret World of Haute Couture
Signe Chanel
Notebook on cities and clothes

Other Documentaries:

• Haute Couture: A Fashion Documentary -- Film Trailer

• The next documentary I'll be watching later this week is Jay McCarroll: Eleven Minutes.

• Also the Sundance Channel* has a Series called "The Day Before".
"... Prigent chronicles the final 36 hours prior to crucial seasonal runway shows featuring creations by some of the fashion world's leading designers. ..."

◊ Season Two starts on Sept. 8, 2010
◊ On Sept. 11, 2010 they are airing Season One back-to-back.

Also check out Signe Chancel on the Sundance Channel:
SIGNE CHANEL EPISODE 1: ANTICIPATION
Monday, September 13 7:30 PM

SIGNE CHANEL EPISODE 2: DOUBTS
Monday, September 13 8:00 PM

SIGNE CHANEL EPISODE 3: RITUALS
Monday, September 13 8:30 PM

SIGNE CHANEL EPISODE 4: SLEEPLESS NIGHTS
Monday, September 13 9:00 PM

SIGNE CHANEL EPISODE 5: THE COLLECTION
Time/Date: ?

* Directv - Sundance Channel: 558

Serger Problem

2010-08-30T21:53:00.001-07:00

After using the Serger for my BF's Jeans, it stopped working. I was in a panic because I had orders to fill. Long story short I had to use a clean edge and bias tape for the raw edges of the seams, because I dropped my serger off at a locale sewing repair shop. Prier to dropping it off I called around and fold what at the time seemed like a reliable repair shop. But when I received a call from them 2 days later I was enraged. I was told that it was going to be $145 which included timing and oiling. I just wanted them to do the timing, so I can continue working. They said they wouldn't because the timing wouldn't hold if I didn't oil it. They tried to convince me that the oiling was needed because the handle felt ruff when you turned it. The handle felt a little ruff or tight, but it only after the timing happened. So they where full of shit. I think they wanted more money. Yes, the machine needs grease on the inside of the machine, but that has nothing to do with the timing nor the handle. So I declined the work and took my machine home and started searching. During my search I found this blog ... bangerlm.blogspot.com

"So I think there is some kind of conspiracy going on. Considering that the local repair shops charge $100, it becomes very pricy to get your machine(s) serviced every year as recommended. Especially if you have machines that only cost around $100-$200. ..." [Link]

I totally agree with her, it does feel like a conspiracy.

The pictures are detailed and you could see the alignment points. My BF was the master mind behind fixing my machine. It took a little while before we go it just right. We had to eliminate why it wasn't working, what was loose, and what didn't needed fixing. We narrowed it down to the upper looper wasn't aligned correctly and we did some tweaking and many test until we got it up and running again. I still need to grease the inside of the machine, but that can wait for another day.

This is a very poor design, because the machine needs to be keyed. If this was a man's machine, you can bet that the adjustable points would be marked in case it went out of alignment. Since people like to pray on the weak, they feel the need to charge us tones money to get one little thing fixed.

After this fiasco I'm going to learn as much as I can about fixing my own machines. I'm never going to take one of my machines to get repaired again. Its not worth buying a $200-$500 machine to turn around and fix it every year for $100 or more. Let say that the machine last about 10 year that $1,000 plus the $200-$500 you spent the the machine. The repairs are more than the machine itself. You are better off buying a new machine if your going to spend that money to repair it. I'm done talking about this for now.

I have video of the before and after that I might upload at a later date. It doesn't show us fixing it, which I regret not filming, but we didn't know if we would get it fixed or not. At the very least if we didn't get it fixed I was going to take it in to get repaired and pay the $145. I'm so happy that we got it working you can't imagine.

Click on image to see larger.

White Speedylock 1600

More LINKS re: Serger Timing/Adjustment
http://bangerlm.blogspot.com/2007/01/do-it-yourself-serger-repair-how-to.html
http://www.crhowto.org/essentials-abcs-serging-3.html
http://www.sergerparts.com/

New Tutorial :: Setting up Industrial Sewing Machine

2010-08-27T13:22:00.000-07:00

I think it was two weeks ago I purchased a Juki DDL-8300N sewing machine. I've always wanted an industrial sewing machine, but I didn't start researching it until recently when my home sewing machine started braking down on me. I sew way too much not to have an industrial sewing machine. Also the machine sews 10 times faster than a home sewing machine.

I made a very quick tutorial on how to thread the machine, threading the bobbin, threading the bobbin case, drawing Up bobbin thread, and removing or placing bobbin case into the machine.

Visit pandemicapparel.com to view the tutorial.

Replacing Broken Zipper on Jeans

2010-08-27T11:24:00.001-07:00

My boyfriend (BF) had two pairs of jeans one had a perfect zipper but was torn; the other had a broken zipper and was otherwise perfect. He had asked me to take both jeans and make one. Rather than make a video tutorial which would take more time that I at the moment I decided to make a blog entry.

The following picture is from the jean that is missing the tooth, a second tooth broke alter on. But you can see that it needed replacing.

This next picture I'm removing the stitches of the waistband. If this is your first time replacing a zipper on jean or any other garment take notes on how its constructed or better yet take a few pictures before you start ripping seams.

Once the waistband seams were removed I started on removing the zipper on the left side of the pants.

I also had to remove some stitches that were holding the zipper in place at the crotch seam.

Next I moved to removing the zipper on the right side of the pants. After doing this to both pants, which took some time, I had my zipper and the broken one.

Here you can see the missing teeth on the lower zipper. These zippers didn't have a "top stops" so when I closed it the pull tab take flying off the teeth. I was left with the pull tab in my hand and surprised look on my face almost comical. It took forever to try to get the pull tab back on the zipper teeth. So keep in my don't close the zipper all the way and secure it with a safety pin.

Now I can finally attach the zipper to the pants.

First I hand stitched the zipper in place, serged the edges that needed it.

Then using my new Juki sewing machine I top stitched the zipper. Since this machine doesn't allow for 2 needle for the top stitching. I had to sew it twice and make sure to be careful about the distance between both.

I started off by attaching the right side of the zipper first then the left side I attached the zipper to the under flap and then top stitched it. Finally I top stitched the crotch seam and the little notch. I'm not sure what its called so I use "little notch". It the zigzag stitch that holds down the inner flap to the jeans.

After finishing the top stitching I moved on to attach the waistband, that was the easiest part.

My BF didn't care that I couldn't match the thread color, so you'll be able to see my top stitching.

Update regarding Alice Cullen Trench Coat

2010-07-01T09:18:00.001-07:00

I had originally scheduled to make a tutorial about the Alice Cullen Trench Coat worn in the movie New Moon. But As I discovered with my last two episodes making a technical tutorial takes too much time and ends up being too lengthy to upload on youtube.
I still want to show you you how its made, I just cant figure out how to do it and not boar you to tears.

I'll keep you posted ...

New Tutorial :: Draping 101 - Trueing Front/Back Bodice Part 2 of 2

2010-06-16T08:45:00.000-07:00

My new tutorial takes you step-by-step on transferring all of your muslin marking onto dotted paper & then onto manila paper. In pattern making one usually has two scissors one for cutting paper and one for fabric. Designers usually have many scissors, but two scissors should be the minimal amount you should have. Never use your fabric scissors for cutting paper & vice-versa.
I've added a PDF to my tutorial for anyone that needs a pattern card. I'll either do a tutorial explaining a pattern card or I'll start a blog post. Either way I'll explain how to fill out a pattern card at a later date.

Tips for Pattern Making:

I just had way too much info that didn't fit in my tutorial, so I'm including it in this blog post. Let me know if this information is useful to any of you.

• Circle Symbol:

To make a perfect circle to mark the dart punch, I used a template. To make one all you'll need is a piece of manila paper & a rabbit hole-punch. First cut out a 2 inch squares (you'll need two of them), staple them together and punch out a hole using your rabbit hole-punch, then find the center and draw to lines. Drawing the two lines will help when trying to find the center.

• Using the Notcher:

A tip when using the notcher, turn it up-side-down, you'll find you can accualy see the what you are doing and it will be more accurate.

• Tracing Wheel:

I store my tracing wheel in its original box with tape on the bottom, so when I need to take it out to use I don't prick myself in the process.

• AWL vs. Japanese Punch:

The Awl doesn't punch the paper, it just leaves a hole.

On the other hand the Japanese or Screw punch removes the paper, leaving the back of my patterns looking very professional. I prefer the Japanese punch, although I don't like getting out my cutting mat every time I need to use it. I have several Japanese punches, but the one I like the most is made buy Martha Stewart for $25. It has 3 different sizes and I generally use the smallest to make my dart punch.

• Another use for the Tracing Wheel:

When the dart is folded you can't see the seam line between the dart. A trick is to close the dart and trace the seam line with the tracing wheel, now you have a clear view of the seam between the dart. Doing this can make it easier if you are having trouble cutting your patterns when the dart is folded or when adding seam allowances to your pattern.

• Visit PandemicApparel.com to watch this tutorial and to get detailed step-by-step instructions.

• And to view this tutorial on youtube.com, click here. Don't forget to subscribe to my youtube channel while you are there.

• If your interesting in receiving updates regarding my tutorials or website, follow me on Twitter, click here.

• List of Tools You'll need for Patternmaking:

Buying Supplies

• I usually go downtown to the fashion district to buy supplies. I've added a link if anybody is interested in buying these supplies online. The cost of shipping paper might be expensive, so try to find it locally.

Atlas Levy Sewing Machine, Co. has a Basic Designer Package

Which includes: 1 Pattern Notcher 45N-1/16 Depth 1/4" Width 1/16", 12 Large pattern hooks for 1" and 1/12" pipes, 1 7" Needle Point & Pattern Tracer, 1 Awl (Punch Hole) 1 Package of Pins, 1 Seam Ripper, & 1 Measuring Tape. If you're starting out and need a starter kit, then this is for you.

Feedback

2010-06-14T12:31:00.001-07:00

I would like some feedback regarding my tutorials. I'm starting to think they are too technical for my time limit of 10 minutes. So maybe, I should start doing some that are easier and more entertaining. What do you guys think?

New Tutorial :: Draping 101 - Front/Back Bodice Part 1 or 2

2010-06-04T10:20:00.000-07:00

My new tutorial takes you step-by-step on draping the front & back bodice. You will need a dress form, if you wish to try out this tutorial. I've also been working on Part 2, so hopefully I'll have it uploaded by next week. I'm trying not to have such a big gap between tutorials. Unfortunately I have to work and having two family members in the hospital this year doesn't help. Plus making tutorials doesn't bring in any cash, I just do it because I want to shear my knowledge with people who want to learn.

You will be able to find step-by-step instruction if you visit my website PandemicApparel.com.

To view this tutorial on youtube.com, click here. Don't forget to subscribe to my youtube channel while you are there.

I also have this tutorial on vimeo.com, click here.

And if your interesting in receiving updates regarding my tutorials or website, follow me on Twitter, click here.

New Nail Color

2010-06-03T08:46:00.001-07:00

I've been neglecting my nails for some time now. And since I was about to video tape part 2 of draping 101. I figured this would be a good of a time as any to paint my nails a different color. I found the following nail colors at the drugstore on sale; buy 1 get the 2nd one at 50% off, not bad.

Whimsy: Neckroll Pillow with Ric Rac

2010-05-25T19:35:00.000-07:00

Check out this tutorial from Sew4Home.com. It's a step-by-step tutorial on how to make a nickroll pillow with a great fabric from Fig Tree & Company for Moda called "Whimsy Ric Rac".

New Tutorial :: Stitch Markers & Coffee Cup Sleeve

2010-03-26T10:44:00.000-07:00

My new tutorial shows you step-by-step how to make two stitch markers & a coffee cup sleeve.

You will be able to find step-by-step instruction if you visit my website PandemicApparel.com

To view this tutorial on youtube.com, click here. Don't forget to subscribe to my youtube channel while you are there.

I also have this tutorial on vimeo.com, click here.
And if your interesting in receiving updates regarding my tutorials or website, follow me on Twitter, click here.

New Tutorial :: Fingerless Mittens inspired by Alice Cullen

2010-03-04T08:22:00.000-08:00

My new tutorial shows you step-by-step how to knit Fingerless Mittens. I recently got inspired by the Alice Cullen character in the movie "New Moon".

Vimeo's doing some maintenance on their site, so in the mean while check out my video on YouTube.com. Don't forget to subscribe to my youtube channel while you are there.

And if your interesting in receiving updates regarding my tutorials or website, follow me on Twitter, click here.

Here are a list of supplies you'll need for this tutorial:

Visit PandemicApparel.com for more info and to download the pattern.

Vimeo Group DIY Sewing

2010-02-26T09:28:00.000-08:00

For those of you interested in finding out when the next fashion show will be, then check my Vimeo Group DIY Sewing. I have a calendar filled with dates. And if your interested in international fashion shows drop me a line and I'll them too.

18th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design Exhibition @ FIDM

2010-02-08T15:51:00.000-08:00

Sat., February 6, 2010, was the opening night of FIDM's 18th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design exhibition. While attending FIDM and after graduating I never found a reason for attending this event on opening night. However this year I thought it would be fun to experience it for the first time. And let me tell you, it was great. I was only expecting to go to the museum, but they had the front of the building decorated like a red carpet event, a tent catering service and music. I wish I would have taken pictures of the party, oh well, maybe next year.

Upon arriving at FIDM we were just a few minutes early, so we got to see Monique Prudhomme (Costume Designer for The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus) being interviewed by the press. I did not speak to her … I'm kind of a chicken when it come to things like that. Nick Verreos was there also giving an interview at the same time.

Here is a

sneak peek at this years costumes.

The Duchess
Michael O'Connor | Paramount Vantage Pathe

2009 Academy Award Winner

Bright Star*
Janet Paterson | Sony Pictures Classics

The Last Station
Monika Jacobs | Sony Pictures Classics

Sherlock Holmes
Jenny Beavan | Warner bros. Pictures

Amelia
Kasia Walicka Maimone | Fox Searchlight Pictures

Broken Embraces
Sonia Grande | Sony Pictures Classics

Inglourious Basterds
Anna Sheppard | The Weinstein Company

The Young Victoria*
Sandy Powell | Apparition

My One and Only
Helen Butler & Doug Hall | Freestyle Releasing

An Education
Odile Dicks-Mireaux | Sony PIctures Classics

Pirate Radio
Joanna Johnston | Universal Pictures

Public Enemies
Colleen Atwood | Universal Pictures

Julie & Julia
Ann Roth | Columbia PIctures

Watchmen
Michael Wilkinson | Warner bros. Pictures

G.I. Joe: The Rise of Cobra
Ellen Mirojnick | Paramount Pictures

Nine*
Colleen Atwood | The Weinstein Company

Night At The Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian
Marlene Stewart (FIDM Graduate) | 20th Century Fox Film Corporation

The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus*
Monique Prudhomme | Sony PIctures Classics

Where The Wild Things Are
Casey Storm | Warner Bros. Pictures

A Single Man
Arianne Phillips | The Weinstein Company

Star Trek
Michael Kaplan | Paramount Pictures

Aliens In The Attic
Mona May (FIDM Graduate) | 20th Century Fox Film Corporation

Coco Before Chanel*
Catherine Leterrier | Soney Pictures Classics
[This nominee's designs was not selected for the exhibit.]

* Achievement in Costume Design

If you would like to know more about FIDM's Art of Motion Pictures Costume Design read this article from The Los Angeles Times by Julie Neigher.

Splashes of sunshine for Spring 2010

2009-12-07T12:56:00.000-08:00

PANTONE Trends
"Splashes of sunshine for Spring 2010
New York Fashion Week, September 10 – 17, 2009

Designers bring splashes of sunshine to the runway for spring 2010. Vibrant brights add a sense of excitement to the color palette, while practical neutrals provide a safety net for cautious consumers.

“Now more than ever, women are vigilant when it comes to spending,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. “Instead of re-inventing their wardrobe at the start of each season, consumers want pieces to complement what they already own. Pairing a bold color with a basic piece or freshening up their look with bright accents addresses the need for practicality, as well as fun.”

Preview colors for Spring 2010." <- download PDF file from Pantone website.

Updates

2009-12-04T11:14:00.000-08:00

I've recently updated my Vimeo account. I've added a Channel & a DIY Sewing Group. I enjoy viewing videos on Vimeo, although there aren't a lot of sewing and craft tutorials, so I decided to start one. Sign up to Vimeo and add your own videos to my group "DIY Sewing".

I never saw any reason for having a Facebook account until recently. I've started a Facebook Page in the hopes of getting feed back from my viewers.

iTunes is another recent addition to my list of accounts I've set up in the past week. Hopefully getting viewers will inspire me to create more tutorials. I receive no profit or free stuff to make my tutorials. I do them because I enjoy sharing my knowledge with other people.

Old Text-Books

2009-04-28T09:38:00.000-07:00

I have often found old text-books helpful when sewing. The pictures are black & white, but the instructions are very clear. They also have little projects with illustrations & drafting information.
Plus I love finding old books from the 1900s.

Here are two books I found in Google Book Search:
•

Text-Book on Domestic Art

•

School needlework

How to Clean Your Iron

2009-04-20T15:02:00.000-07:00

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/cleaniron

By Susan M. Keenan

Cleaning your iron on a regular basis is essential to maintaining clean, crisp clothes. At first glance, you may wonder how it is that one goes about cleaning an iron. In fact, you may even avoid the task simply because you don't know how to go about it.

Fortunately, cleaning the iron is no more difficult than cleaning most other small appliances. All it takes is a little bit of time and a few simple tools.

Cleaning the Reservoir

The reservoir of your iron needs cleaning if it looks as though small deposits are being left in the small holes on the soleplate. Typically, the deposits are minerals from the water that you are using in the reservoir. The deposits may have a white color, and they may resemble salt.

Cleaning the reservoir requires the use of white vinegar and a clean rag. Fill the reservoir of a cold iron at least one fourth of the way with white vinegar. Turn the iron on and place it on the steam setting. Steam iron the clean rag until the reservoir is completely empty.

If the deposits are still visible to you, you will need to fill the reservoir with clean water and steam iron a rag again. If the deposits are still visible to you after this, you will need to repeat the process with vinegar until the deposits are no longer apparent.

Rinse the reservoir thoroughly with clean water by filling it completely and then emptying it completely. In order to avoid mineral buildup and deposits, use only distilled or purified water in the reservoir. If you continue to use tap water, simply remember to clean the reservoir periodically.

Vinegar has a strong smell associated with it, especially when it is heated. Ventilate the area where you are working as much as possible, by opening windows, turning on vents or fans, or keeping the door open.

Cleaning the Soleplate

Unfortunately, the soleplate of an iron is prone to occasional build up. Therefore, the soleplate requires cleaning in order to avoid staining the clothes or fabrics. Avoid abrasive cleaning powders or scouring pads.

Begin with a cold iron that is unplugged from the electrical outlet. Use a mild dish washing soap or laundry detergent to create a sudsy solution. Use a nylon mesh pad, sponge, or a clean cloth dipped in the solution to completely wipe off the soleplate of the iron. Wipe the soleplate clean with a damp cloth or rag.

If the soleplate is the victim of a starchy build up or corrosion of some form, you will need to use something a little stronger. Use a clean cloth dipped in white vinegar to remove the build up. Wipe the soleplate clean with a cloth dampened in clean water.

If this does not work, then you will need to heat a solution of white vinegar and salt until the salt dissolves. Using a clean cloth sipped in the heated solution, wipe the iron's soleplate clean. Continue wiping until you have removed all of the build up or corrosion. Remember to wipe the iron completely clean with a cloth dampened in clean water.

Cleaning the Exterior of the Iron

The exterior of the iron should be kept clean to avoid any unnecessary transfer of dirt onto the articles that are being ironed. Simply wipe the exterior clean with a damp cloth or sponge occasionally. If the iron does happen to pick up some form of residue on its exterior, then wipe it with a mild dish washing solution. Completing this task when you are cleaning the soleplate of the iron is an excellent time saver.

Storing the Iron

Whenever you are finished with the iron, you should empty the reservoir completely and allow it to dry out. This will also help to prevent mineral build up and lessen the frequency with which you need to clean the reservoir. Remember that the water in the reservoir may be hot since the iron was turned on. Empty the water slowly by tilting the iron over the sink or laundry tub. Store the iron in an upright position in a location where it won't be easily disturbed.

VALENTINO: THE LAST EMPEROR (Movie)

2009-03-23T09:27:00.000-07:00

Friday on the Martha Stewart Show they had Valentino promoting his new film, "Valentino: The Last Emperor". And it was sad to find out the his fashion house might be sold to an outside party and eventually announce his retirement. I remember watching all of the fashion designers and their runway shows on TV when I was younger. Thats one of the reasons I started doing fashion. And to think that some of these designer are not going to be around much longer; especially in todays economy.

… "

the documentary in question follows the iconic designer as he celebrates the 45th anniversary of his namesake fashion house, faces the brand’s being sold off to an outside party, and, eventually, announces his retirement." … [

HOW TO REMOVE 250 STAINS FROM CLOTHES & TEXTILES

2009-03-23T08:49:00.000-07:00

It's amazing what one can find on the internet these days. Not only from reading fashion magazine or blogs. I found a 2002 article in Science Daily about stain removal. Apparently a "retired extension educator" updated a 1975 cornell publication called "Removing Stains at Home".

It's basically a 12 page booklet that explain how to removal almost any stain. It even list the stains that can't be removed. They go on to say one will get the best results if the stain is fresh. I download the PDF and I think I might even have a section on my website devoted to textiles (i.e. how to clean, store & about care label symbols).

REMOVING STAINS AT HOME
ARTICLE: ScienceDaily "How to remove 250 Stains from Clothes & Textiles"

HOMEMADE DRYER SHEETS

2009-03-22T16:16:00.000-07:00

How to make dryer sheets.

Materials:
• Cotton Fabric
• Pinking Shears
• Spray Bottle
• Fabric Softener (any brand)

Instructions:
1. Using your pinking shears cut fabric into 8"x8" squares.
2. Fill your spray bottle with fabric softener.
3. When you're ready to do a load of laundry, spray a cotton square 6 to 8 times & toss it in the dryer.
Tip: Wash your squares every once in a while to remove buildup of softener. With a little care, these dryer sheets should last for years.

"… Dryer sheets are made of fabric softener, like Downy, dried onto a small piece of fabric. It's just the stuff you put in the wash, but in solid form… If you make your own dryer sheets, one bottle of fabric softener can last you more than a year, & you'll save some big bucks…"
[Book: The Big Ass Book of Crafts by Mark Montano]

After reading this book I decided to research this for myself and I found more recipes on how to make your own dryer sheets. Below are a list of the recipes I've found.

Other Recipes:
• Recipe #1: Put liquid fabric softener into an old, cleaned spray bottle. Spray 4 to 6 sprays on a rag and tumble with clothes in dryer as ususal. Wash the rag now and then to remove buildup.

• Recipe #2: Mix 1 cup fabric softener with 2 cups water in spray bottle. Spray 4 to 6 sprays on a rag and tumble with clothes in dryer as ususal. Wash the rag now and then to remove buildup.

• Recipe #3: Mix 1 part hair conditioner and 1 part water in spray bottle. Spray 4 to 6 sprays on a rag and tumble with clothes in dryer as ususal. Wash the rag now and then to remove buildup.

• Recipe #4: Fill spray bottle with vinegar. You can add a few drops of essential oil to the vinegar if desired. Spray 4 to 6 sprays on a rag and tumble with clothes in dryer as ususal. Wash the rag now and then to remove buildup.

• Recipe #5: Soak an old washcloth in liquid fabric softener. Ring out excess softener and then lie flat to dry. Toss dried cloth in dryer as needed. You’ll be able to reuse your cloth about 12 times before you’ll need to wash the cloth and re-soak in fabric softener.

Compiled from the following links:
[About.com, Frugral Fabric Softener Recipes & Dryer Sheet Tips, & Making Your Own Fabric Softener]

[Curbly.com]

CHANEL UNVEILS LATEST CAMPAIGN FOR NO.5

2009-03-20T09:17:00.000-07:00

Almost five years since Baz Luhrmann and Nicole Kidman united in what was allegedly the costliest advertisement ever, Chanel will unveil the next mini-movie in the No.5 saga, featuring the quintessentially French duo of director Jean-Pierre Jeunet and his leading lady, Audrey Tautou. Taking the theme of missed encounters between strangers, the commercial depicts doe-eyed Tautou and strapping model Travis Davenport en route from Paris to Istanbul aboard the Orient Express.
[link]

Yarn Ball Boogie

2009-03-18T17:29:00.000-07:00

If you like to knit check out this website Yarn Ball Boogie.

I'm not a skilled knitter by any means, and I haven't seen many knitting sites that get me in the mood to knit, like this web site. I now wish I had the skills & time to knit, because there are some patterns on this website that caught my eye.

Rabbit Season

2009-03-13T13:58:00.000-07:00

What was

Louis Vuitton thinking when they sent the models out wearing Rabbit ears? I was unable to focus on the clothes because all I could think about was "Rabbit Season!?!". And to top it all off Moschino Cheap & Chic's Fall collection in February. Had the models wearing mouse ears.
[

See pictures below

]

Louis Vuitton

RTW Fall 2009

Moschino Cheap & Chic

RTW Fall 2009

Paris Fashion Week: John Galliano

2009-03-12T22:07:00.000-07:00

John Galliano's collection was all about Russia. I love watching his shows, and designers like him, because it's like viewing a 60 sec. movie … which

incidentally

is how I watch movies anyway. This collection had wonderful lavish embroidery eveningwear in shimmery silver and white hues. He also had many colorful and

whimsical

garments that were more for show than anything else.
[

See pictures & video below

]

Alexander McQueen RTW Fall 2009

2009-03-12T10:37:00.000-07:00

… "

the motif made for a spectacular parade, an extravaganza of remarkable cut and construction in mix-and-match houndstooth. The bravado continued in high-drama coats, including a black, floral-flocked leather and intricately wrought knits, and went through to evening with a double-bubble ballgown, its black-and-red houndstooth morphing into a flock of dangerous birds, and a strapless siren gown crafted from tightly packed feathers. McQueen kept the recycling theme going throughout, working his own classics, finishing off looks with Philip Treacy’s spectacular hats — lamp shade, umbrella or deli plastic bag — and showing some elaborate fare in faux garbage-bag plastic and bubble wrap (actually treated silks)." …

[

WWD - Alexander McQueen RTW Fall 2009

]

The Dreaded Eighties

2009-02-17T10:06:00.000-08:00

I just finished reading about New York's Fashion Week and guess what? The dreaded eighties style has come back ....

Marc Jacobs Fall 2009 - "... delivering an over-the-top ode to the New York Eighties ..."

Donna Karan Fall 2009 - "... Karan reached back to the mid-Eighties with crystal transparency..."

Telegtaph.co.uk: Vivienne Westwood at Paris Fashion Week

2009-02-16T12:47:00.000-08:00

By Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director

Last Updated: 10:31AM GMT 22 Jan 2009

DIY fashion: Vivienne Westwood's joyously haphazard approach to dress

Vivienne Westwood's powerful show featured DIY fashion and was based on the idea that time is running out...

In pictures: Vivienne Westwood s/s '09 collection

“DIY! Don’t buy my clothes. Well, if you are rich or can afford a stylist, you can get me. But if not, do it yourself. My idea is that you can mix charity, vintage, Portobello Road, pieces of Ikat fabric; wrap it all around yourself, use a handkerchief as knickers, mix safety pins and jewellery. But above all do something! Be optimistic!”

Vivienne Westwood’s passionate pre-show dialogue was all about saving the rainforest and she was not in the slightest bit cautious about letting her politics invade her collection.

“We are in the most terrible danger. In 100 years 5 billion people could be dead, London could be inundated in 20 years. Time is running out.”

The inevitability of time was underscored on a World’s End clock printed on a T-shirt, one of the more instantly recognizable and recycled items in the show, along with a fresh take on the famous pirate boots, although this time decorated with rough-cut white denim in a nod to her legendary ‘cut-and-slash’ collection.

Elsewhere, she was true to her DIY manifesto, using colourful, printed tubes and rectangles of fabric, twisted, tied and wrapped around the body to form a colourful and joyously haphazard approach to dress.
Skirts were bunched up and secured with D-rings. A leopard-print throw came with baggy, grey cotton shorts. A yellow Chinese, embroidered bed-cloth was worn as a sarong with a striped Lurex jumper.

A remnant of blue and white print cotton was twisted into “nappies” and teamed with an Ikat print stole. And vast lengths of pastel, ticking stripe were gathered and knotted into crinolines and sari-style gowns.

Staged to Rachmaninov’s Second Piano Concerto, the show carried a powerful message. But was anybody listening?

[

LINK

]

LA Times: LACMA expands its costume and textile holdings

2009-02-15T23:17:00.000-08:00

LACMA expands its costume and textile holdings

At last, the L.A. County Museum of Art is significantly ramping up its costume and textiles holdings to make them competitive with -- dare we say it? -- the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. LACMA announced Monday that it has purchased 250 pieces of European fashion for men, women and children, dating from 1700 to 1915. Among the highlights: an array of women’s dresses that demonstrate changes in silhouette over the 200-year period, a 1790s knitted men’s waistcoat in motifs expressing sympathy for the French Revolution, and a women’s silk robe (circa 1745 to 1760) from the Netherlands in a chinoiserie pattern illustrating the influence of Orientalism on European dress.

LACMA’s Senior Curator and Department Head of Costume and Textiles Sharon S. Takeda proposed the collection, which was put together by London collector Martin Kamer and Galerie Ruf in Switzerland. Costume Council member Ellen Michelson made the trip to Europe to see it and made a significant gift to help with the purchase. But it was L.A.-based couture collector Susan Saperstein who sealed the deal, paying more than half of the purchase price.

LACMA will present an inaugural exhibition of the collection in 2010 titled “Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 to 1915.”

Now all we need is a star-studded museum gala to open it. Take that, Anna Wintour.

-- Booth Moore

Photo: French gown circa 1790. Credit: LACMA
[

LINK

]

LA Times: LACMA fashions a new reputation

2009-01-15T17:05:00.000-08:00

LACMA fashions a new reputation

With a single acquisition — quietly in the works for three years and made public Friday — the

Los Angeles County Museum of Art

has become a major center for the study and display of 18th and 19th century European clothing.

The new addition of about 250 outfits and 300 accessories created between 1700 and 1915 includes men’s three-piece suits, women’s dresses, children’s garb and a vast array of shoes, hats, purses, shawls, fans and undergarments. Wonders of innovative design, meticulous construction and intricate needlework, they were painstakingly assembled over a quarter of a century by two European dealers.

LACMA bought the collection with funds provided by Los Angeles philanthropist Suzanne Saperstein and other donors. As a matter of policy, the museum does not disclose the cost of acquisitions, but sources familiar with the European costume market said that this was a multimillion-dollar deal. Many of the ensembles would probably bring six-figure prices at auction because of their workmanship, condition and rarity.

“We could never put this collection together, dress by dress, even if we had the money,” said Sharon S. Takeda, senior curator and head of the museum’s costume and textiles department. “We had a very good 18th century collection, but it was strongest in English and American material.”

The new cache — predominantly French, with some items from the Netherlands — is a near-perfect fit that “makes LACMA’s collection incredibly strong,” Takeda said. “We will be able to show fashion history, how the silhouette changed from decade to decade, and talk about other things that happened at the same time.”

The collection also seems likely to prove a valuable resource for Hollywood costume designers.

Saperstein, right, a collector of haute couture who has studied 18th and 19th century fashions and furniture, said that she was “absolutely amazed” when she got her first peek at the collection about a year ago. “I am very interested in period textiles and costumes, so for me it was wonderful to see. I think the community is going to love it.”

The first exhibition of the acquisition will be held in fall 2010, when “Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915” will inaugurate the Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavilion under construction immediately north of the Broad Contemporary Art Museum, on the west side of LACMA’s campus.

The show will track fashion’s technical and artistic development from the Enlightenment to World War I and explore related cultural themes. Special attractions will include a man’s knitted silk waistcoat designed as a statement of support for the French Revolution; a hunting ensemble composed of a red wool coat, white leather breeches and black riding boots; and a black silk-satin gown embroidered in gold thread and sequins that belonged to Queen Maria II of Portugal.

Ambitious as that project is, it’s only a beginning, Takeda said this week as she and her colleagues pointed out examples stored in large boxes on rolling metal shelves, spread out on tables and hung on racks. Along with impossibly complicated, handmade garments, there’s a “lobster pot” bustle, a pair of women’s thigh-high “fetish” boots and a carved wood “Hercules club,” designed as an intimidating walking stick for gentlemen needing to protect themselves.

All this was amassed by dealers Martin Kamer of London and Wolfgang Ruf of Beckenried, Switzerland, who were fierce competitors for many years. They eventually decided to merge their holdings into one massive collection and offer it to a few museums, said Takeda, who got wind of it about three years ago.

LACMA had no director at the time; Andrea Rich had retired and Michael Govan had yet to come on board. But Takeda and an assistant went to the warehouse in Basel, Switzerland, where the collection was stored, and compiled a thorough report. They returned to Los Angeles with detail-filled notebooks and high hopes but no idea if money could be found for the purchase.

A few months after Govan took charge of LACMA, he challenged curators to “raise the bar,” Takeda said. “He asked us to look at really important pieces, things that could change our departments and the museum.” Within a week, she took her idea to the new director, who “just totally got it,” she said. “He saw right away that this helps to bring the museum’s collection alive” by providing “a window into paintings” and other artworks.

Govan, Takeda and Ellen Michelson, a member of the museum’s Costume Council who lives in San Francisco, soon made a trip to Basel to see the collection. Michelson and her husband, Michael, agreed to pay about a third of the purchase price, a sum that would allow the museum to ship the collection to Los Angeles and show it to potential donors.

“We brought in small groups, and everyone was blown away,” Takeda said. Additional funds arrived, but time was running out and the museum had secured less than half the purchase price when Saperstein came to the rescue.

“We were close to losing the collection when Suzanne came,” Takeda said. “She really brought it home for us.”

Saperstein credits her support to Govan.

“I met him about a year ago, and I was really impressed with his vision of what the museum could be,” she said.

The acquisition closes out a good year of collection-building at LACMA. Although the museum’s hopes of landing Eli Broad’s contemporary art collection were dashed early in 2008, LACMA gained large holdings of pre-Columbian and Oceanic art, the Marjorie and Leonard Vernon collection of 3,500 photographs, and many significant individual works, including a 15th century painting by Cima da Conegliano.

The costume and textiles department has had a relatively low profile, especially by comparison with the

Metropolitan Museum of Art

’s Costume Institute, which has a collection of more than 30,000 costumes and accessories and calls itself “arguably the preeminent institution of its kind in the world.”

However, LACMA is ramping up with a new support group, called Atelier, and a packet of promotional material stating that costume and textiles is “the only curatorial department at LACMA that houses an encyclopedic collection: more than 25,000 objects represent more than 100 cultures and 2,000 years of human creativity in the textile arts, from pre-Columbian Latin American clothing, textiles and accessories to contemporary couture.”

To Takeda’s way of thinking, “There are some departments here that can never be No. 1, but this one can.”

-- Suzanne Muchnic

Photos: From top, research scholar Kimberly Christman-Campbell, left, and curator Sharon S. Takeda survey items; Suzanne Saperstein; a man's jacket typifies the meticulous construction and intricate needlework that characterize the collection. Credit: Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times.

[

LINK

]

Spring 2009 Fashion Color Palette

2008-10-21T09:31:00.000-07:00

Each season, Pantone surveys designers showing at New York Fashion Week to collect feedback on prominent collection colors, color inspiration, color philosophy and each designer's signature shade. The result is the Pantone Fashion Color Report, which this season reveals a colorful, optimistic Spring 2009 filled with vibrant pops of color set against deeper, translucent neutral tones.

Blue & purple lead the top 10 hues for spring '09, rounded out by lush greens which evoke a sense of renewal and a fresh start. Sophisticated neutrals ground the overall palette, providing visual stability in an economic climate that is anything. "New York's fashion designers encourage hopeful attitudes with lively colors, while sophisticated, grounded hues address the need for stability in times of economic uncertainty," explains Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute.

The Top 10 Spring 2009 colors for women are:

• PANTONE 18-4043 Palace Blue
• PANTONE 15-3817 Lavender
• PANTONE 14-0754 Super Lemon
• PANTONE 15-1626 Salmon Rose
• PANTONE 18-2328 Fuchsia Red
• PANTONE 14-1307 Rose Dust
• PANTONE 16-5804 Slate Gray
• PANTONE 16-6339 Vibrant Green
• PANTONE 16-0435 Dark Citron
• PANTONE 14-5714 Lucite Green

Colors tend to evolve from season to season, and the blues which dominated Fall 2008 are now being expressed as spring's Palace Blue, a navy with some added sparkle which pairs easily with the entire palette; fall's rich purple has morphed into Lavender...lighter, more summery, and even a touch mystical.

The fun, optimistic characteristics of yellow continue to make it an important hue, especially as tangy & luminous Super Lemon which is not only eyecatching, but cheery. Subtle, summery orange'ish Salmon Rose is not only friendly and approachable, but also flatters most complexions, and blue-toned Fuchsia Red adds classic, sensual elegance both to clothing and cosmetics - like lipstick and nail polish. Subtle rose tones result in a sexy, dimensional neutral in Rose Beige, while cool Slate Gray has bluish-green undertones which creates a nuanced neutral for the other 9 colors. Green perpetuates freshness and renewal in the form of Vibrant Green, a quintessential spring shade; calm and somewhat serious Dark Citron; and Reflective Lucite Green for a dash of clean, subtle shimmer.

- Lesley Scott

Halloween Is coming up ....

2008-08-14T11:17:00.000-07:00

I always get excited around this time of year because Halloween seems to be around the corner (well for me at least). Plus I've already spotted some stores that have Halloween decorations for sale. I think this year I'll make a collection of links related to Halloween and some ideas from the past.

COSTUMES & More!!!!

La Couturière Parisienne Costume and Fashion Site (My Favorite Site)
http://www.marquise.de/en/

The Costumer's Manifesto:
http://www.costumes.org/

Makeup: Gluing Sequins or Rhinestones to your face:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB3h0Lib2Qo

Bellydance Costume ideas:
http://www.celebrationsbellydance.com/costume_ideas.htm

The Costumes of Marie Antoinette:
http://www.antoinettescloset.com/index.htm

La Bricoleuse - a blog by a costumer. She even recons hats and shoes!!!:
http://labricoleuse.livejournal.com/

Costume Pictures from the movie Elizabeth: Golden Era:
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/exhibit/Arclight/Elizabeth_Golden.htm

Beginner Costuming (Basics, Corsetry, Drafting & Patterns, and much more):
http://www.costumebeginner.com/

The Secret History of the Corset & Crinoline:
http://www.fathom.com/course/21701726/session2.html

18th Century Blog - Great pictures and Ideas:
http://18thcenturyblog.com/

Costume & Corset Supplies - Farthingales online Catalog:
http://www.farthingales.on.ca/

Recreating 16th & 17th Century Clothing: The Renaissance Tailor:
http://www.vertetsable.com/index.html

Fashion in Japan

2008-05-14T12:46:00.000-07:00

Street fashion has been a main fascination with me for quite some time now. Mainly because I like to see how people around the world dress and how each country has adapted a signature style. Since my current situation doesn't allow me to travel as much as I would like, I have relied sonly on the internet to provide these images and in doing so I recently came across this website dedicated to street fashion in Japan.

• • • • • •

Loic Bizel, French, 36 years old, has been working in the fashion industry in Japan for the past 11 years. He has been dealing with the Japanese fashion market "from the inside", being involved in wholesale and retail activities, as well as consulting for foreign brands and Japanese companies.

His experience and connections with the fashion distribution, together with his knowledge of the retailers will therefore help you to tackle the Japanese market in the right way. Since 2006, Lebiz Tokyo has been developing exclusive Benchmark and Trends Reports for clients from all over the world.

Lebiz Tokyo is also well-known in the fashion industry for its original concepts that were launched in 2001 : the Tokyo Fashion Tour (shopping) and www.FashioninJapan.com (live fashion pictures from Tokyo).

Loic Bizel has also been nicknamed by the press as a "cool hunter" and a "trendspotter" ! Even though Loic prefers to describe himself as "the foreign eyes of Japanese Fashion".

CFDA Announces 2008 Nominees

2008-04-23T18:56:00.000-07:00

I'm a little behind in posting some of my finds about the fashion world. But I did past an article below from Fashion Wire Daily (FWD).

• • • • • •

Renata Espinosa

March 11th, 2008 @ 4:13 PM - New York

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) announced the nominees for the 2008 CFDA Fashion Awards on Monday night, March 10, at an event hosted by Swarovski at Rockefeller Center.

The awards, which will be on held June 2 at the New York Public Library, are among the highest honors for an American fashion designer to receive.

There were few surprises in the announcement, however, with most designers having received nominations in previous years. In some cases, like the Womenswear Designer of the Year category, all three designers who were nominated - Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler - received that award in years past (Costa in 2006, Jacobs in 1997 and McCollough and Hernandez shared the award last year with Oscar de la Renta).

In the Menswear category, Thom Browne, who won in 2006, returned to the ballot. Tom Ford and Michael Bastian were the other two designers named.

Marc Jacobs received a second nomination this year for Accessory Designer of the Year; he has done well in this category, winning in 2003 and in 2005 for his Marc by Marc Jacobs line. Also nominated were Tory Burch and Michael Kors.

Swarovski, who underwrites the awards, also sponsors three special awards for emerging design talent. The nominees this year for the Swarovski Award for Womenswear were Kate & Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte, Thakoon Panichgul, and Alexander Wang. For the Swarovski Award for Menswear, Patrik Ervell, Tim Hamilton and Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders were nominated and in Accessory Design, Philip Crangi, Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewelry and Joy Gryson.

Other honorees on June 2 include Carolina Herrera, for the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award, Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg for the CFDA Board of Directors' Special Tribute, Candy Pratts Price for the Eugenia Sheppard Award and Dries Van Noten for the International Award.

[Website:

www.fashionwiredaily.com/first_word/news/article.weml?id=1862

]

Business of Fashion Partners with Saks for LA Event

2008-04-23T18:53:00.000-07:00

Upcoming Event: 04/30/2008

Saks Fifth Avenue / Beverly Hills California
Wednesday April 30 , 2008 7 to 9PM

Saks Fifth Avenue presents the second in its three part series with the Council of Fashion Designers of America to discuss topics related to business development and the critical elements designers need to consider in order to create and sustain a successful enterprise. This event is also supported by Gen Art.

SELLING: Perspectives from All Angles
-From the department store to the red carpet
-From designer to entrepreneur
-from editor to consumer

Moderator: Booth Moore I Los Angeles Times

Panelists: Michael Macko I Saks Fifth Avenue
George Kotsiopoulos I C Magazine
John Whitledge I Trovata
Arianne Phillips I Stylist

Time:
7:00PM Cocktails
7:30PM Panel Discussion

Location:
9600 Wilshire Boulevard
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
3rd Floor SAKS East

Parking: Valet at SAKS East
RSVP by April 21st 310-887-5336

[Website:

www.cfda.com

]

60th Annual Parsons' Benefit & Fashion Show

2008-04-23T18:49:00.000-07:00

Upcoming Event: 04/28/2008

Grand Hyatt New York
Monday, April 28, 2008
6:00 PM - 9:00 PM

Parsons’ annual Benefit and Fashion Show is a black tie gala that raises funds for scholarships and academic programs at the school. This year, Parsons will be honoring two powerhouses of the fashion industry at its event: CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg and Barneys New York Chairman and CEO Howard Socol. A highlight of the event is a runway show featuring the top thesis collections of Parsons’ graduating BFA Fashion Design students, including its Designers of the Year. The Designer of the Year Award has launched the careers of such famous alumni as Marc Jacobs, Doo-Ri Chung and Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler.

Ticket Info:

Individual tickets from $1,500; Tables from $15,000

Open To:

All

Contact:

Lisa Smilor - L.Smilor@CFDA.com if you are interested in attending the event/joining other Members at a CFDA table.

[Website:

www.cfda.com

]

CREATEUROPE: The Fashion Academy Award 2008

2008-04-16T16:52:00.000-07:00

DEADLINE:

June 30, 2008

CREATEUROPE: The Fashion Academy Award is a Europe-wide competition for young fashion designers & fashion design students.

This will be the first time this award will be held. The object of this contest is to create links between European fashion training schools in addition to promoting lasting, active dialogue between students and teachers.

• • • • • •

A competition for the vagrant young fashion scene in Europe

createurope: THE FASHION ACADEMY AWARD

adds to the networking of creative people, creates public awareness, and stimulates new ideas. European fashion, and design schools, the Goethe Institute in the respective countries and the local cultural institutes as well as private partners will all be involved.

The creative industry is experiencing a noticeable upsurge at the moment. An innovative project from the European cultural institutions is using this momentum to start an international competition.

The young creative prize winners will be determined in two separate phases. In the first phase candidates from the participating countries will be chosen to present themselves in the second phase to a prominent international selection committee. The closing event will take place at the end of October in Berlin offering a platform for publicity.

National kick-off events, a visitors programme for directors of the involved schools, symposiums, etc, will accompany the project in the hope of achieving a network amongst the fashion creators that reaches beyond national borders.

[Website:

www.createurope.com

]

2008 EDFF Information

2008-04-16T16:27:00.000-07:00

I just came across this artical about the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation. Although the deadline for the contest has passed it is something to take note of for next year.

About the EDFF Awards

Designers from across the U.S. submit applications via the Ecco Domani Web site,

www.eccodomani.com

. To be eligible, entrants must be in the design business for no longer than five (5) years and have a minimum of one (1) retail account. In addition to references, applicants are required to submit look books and/or photographs of their work. From the initial pool of applicants, 25 semi-finalists are chosen and then evaluated on samples of their most recent ready-to-wear women's and men's collections. From this talented group the judges vote on the final six.

Ecco Domani is proud to have helped launch the careers of fashion designers such as Brian Reyes, Rodarte, Hanuk, Visible Panty Line, Vena Cava, rag & Bone, Zac Posen, Harmon, Libertine, Project Alabama, Palmer Jones, Proenza Schouler, Doo.Ri, Peter Som, Mary Ping, Tess Giberson, Derek Lam, Jeffrey Chow, Trovata and the design collective, As Four.

• • • • • •

ECCO DOMANI® SEARCHES FOR TOMORROW'S FASHION STARS To Award $25,000 Each to Seven Emerging Designers

New York, NY, July 2007

- Be one of the seven designers to join the ranks of some of the biggest names in the world of fashion. The search is on for the fashion stars of tomorrow, as the Ecco Domani® Fashion Foundation (EDFF), established by stylish Ecco Domani Italian wines, launches its seventh annual season. Seven promising fashion designers - five womenswear, one menswear and new this year, one accessories designer - could win an extraordinary opportunity to showcase their collection during New York's fall fashion week. The EDFF awards each come with a generous grant of $25,000 to help produce an unforgettable show. Some of today's hottest designers including Zac Posen, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte, Doo Ri, Rag & Bone and Erin Fetherston are past recipients.
"Winning the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation award was such a huge honor," said Erin Fetherston, 2007 EDFF winner. "The program is so enabling for emerging designers. It allows us to showcase our designs in one of the grandest fashion events of the year, New York Fashion Week. I would never have been able to do this without their support."
"Along with my fellow judges, I'm looking forward to scouting the talents for the 2008 awards. The word domani in Ecco Domani is the perfect metaphor for what the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation awards represent to the American fashion industry: Tomorrow," says Marylou Luther, editor of The International Fashion Syndicate.
The rigorous judging process is administered by an esteemed panel of judges in the women's, men's and accessories categories. The selections committee for womenswear as well as women's accessories, includes Marylou Luther (Editor of The International Fashion Syndicate), Sally Singer (Fashion News/Features Director at Vogue), Kim Hastreiter (Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of Paper), Nicole Fischelis (Fashion Director at Macy's), Julie Gilhart (Vice President of Fashion Merchandising at Barneys), Ruth Finley (Publisher of The Fashion Calendar) and the newest judge, Ken Downing (Senior Vice President/Fashion Director at Neiman Marcus). The selections committee for menswear includes Armand Limnander (Senior Editor of T: The New York Times Style Magazine), Jay Bell (buyer for Menswear Designs at Barneys New York), and Madeline Weeks (Fashion Director at GQ).
Interested candidates can find out more and dow

nload an

application form

for the 2008 EDFF award starting this month on

www.eccodomani.com

. Closing date for the seventh season is October 5, 2007. Finalists wi

ll be announced by January 2, 2008. Complete requirements and official rules are available online.

[Website:

www.eccodomani.com/fashion/edff_information.html

]

Vivienne Westwood's Fashion Exhibition

2008-04-15T14:35:00.000-07:00

Major British fashion designer's provocative styles over the past 30 years are showcased in lively, international exhibition; 3 March - 10 June 2007, de Young, Herbst Exhibition Galleries

An arresting array of more than 150 garments and accessories, from the gloriously elegant to the rebelliously provocative, by the iconoclastic fashion designer Vivienne Westwood will be showcased in this spirited and engaging exhibition. The work, created over 35 years, encompasses styles from the street style of the 1970s to grand ball gowns whose designs were influenced by historical art and dress, to the more recent exploration of pattern-cutting techniques and socio-political critique. Organized by the V&A, London, the exhibition is the largest display that the museum has ever dedicated to a British designer and features designs selected from both the V&A's collection and Vivienne Westwood's personal archive. The San Francisco showing, the only North American venue thus far, is the culmination of a three-year international tour of eight European, Asian, and Pacific Rim venues.

Vivienne Westwood (b. 1941) is a global icon as well as an iconoclast. In the 1970s, she electrified the fashion world with the launch of punk and went on to become one of the most inventive and influential designers of our time. Fashion to her became "a baby I picked up and never put down." Known best for her willingness to take risks and to disregard conventions, she also has a profound respect for the past and looks to it for inspiration. With tradition as her springboard, she takes historic garments such as corsets and crinolines and reinvents them in new ways.

Another hallmark of her ever-evolving work is her use of thoroughly British fabrics such as tartans and tweeds to create fashion that gently parodies Establishment styles and the royalty. Regardless of how outrageous or provocative the result may be however, her approach has always been practical. She is driven by a curiosity about how things work, and her work reflects her systematic exploration of the structure of historical costume.

Vivienne Westwood: "You have a much better life if you wear impressive clothes".

A major influence on fashion design, her career ranges from street wear and haute couture to ready-to-wear; from outfits that she designed in the 1970s for the Sex Pistols, the corsetry and ball gowns of the 1980s and 1990s and the innovative pattern cutting of the most recent years. Her work spans the extremes of fashion, from London street culture to the elegant collections created for the catwalks of Paris, London and Milan and reveals Westwood's own evolution from subversive shop owner to one of fashion's most respected and colourful figures. The V&A curator of the Westwood exhibition, Claire Wilcox, says: "Highly influential and always ahead of her time, Vivienne Westwood encapsulates a particular kind of Britishness, combining fearless non-conformity with a sense of tradition...."

The exhibition includes sections devoted to tailoring, tartan, and accessories, and the famous blue mock-croc platform shoes that Naomi Campbell wore when she fell on the catwalk in 1993 will also be on display. Film and catwalk footage about the life and career of Westwood will be shown throughout the exhibition.

Vivienne Westwood's contribution to British fashion was honored in 1990 and 1991 when she was awarded British Designer of the Year twice in a row. The global strength of her business was recognized in 1998 when she was given the Queen's Award for Export, and in 2003 she was named Export Designer of the Year and awarded the UK Fashion Export Award for Design. Her place in British cultural history was firmly established in 2006 when she became the first ever British designer to receive a D.B.E by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for her outstanding contribution to fashion.

The Fine Arts Museums and the V&A, London: An Accord Vivienne Westwood is the fourth in a series of major international exhibitions shared between the Fine Arts Museums and the V&A, London. Prior presentations include A Grand Design: The Art of the Victoria and Albert Museum, on view at the Legion of Honor in 1999; Art Deco 1910-1939, on view in 2004, also at the Legion; and International Arts and Crafts: William Morris to Frank Lloyd Wright, on view at the de Young from March to June, 2006.

This seven-year collaboration was formalized by the singing of an accord between the two institutions in May, 2006. The accord, which is based on the principle of equal participation from both institutions in joint activities and reciprocal exchanges, establishes preferential status regarding exhibition sharing and the sharing of collections, programs, and resources.

Venues

Prior to its showing at the de Young in San Francisco Vivienne Westwood has been on view at the V&A, London, 1 April through 11 July 2004; National Gallery of Australia, Canberra, 11 November 2004 through 30 January 2005; Bund Shanghai, 8 July through 7 August, 2005; Taipei Fine Arts Museums, 1 September through 19 October 2005; Mori Arts Center Gallery, Tokyo, 23 November 2005 through 15 January 2006; NRW Forum, Düsseldorf, 4 February through 14 May 2006; and Thailand Creative and Design Centre, Bangkok, 22 July through 24 September 2006.

Organization and Credit

Exhibition organized by the V&A, London.

Catalogue

Vivienne Westwood, published by V&A Publications, accompanies the exhibition. Written by exhibition curator Claire Wilcox, with a foreword by Vivienne Westwood, this is the first full-length study of her work as a fashion designer and contains over 200 illustrations. Available in the Museum Stores; soft cover, $35.

Admission Fees and Hours

There is a $5 surcharge for Vivienne Westwood. Ticket prices include general admission to the museum and the surcharge: $15 adults; $12 seniors; $11 youths 13-17 and students with college I.D.; children 12 and under are free.

Tickets can be purchased online at

www.famsf.org

; there is a service charge for tickets purchased online. Tickets can also be purchased at the door, at one of the museum's self-service ticket kiosks, or by calling 1-866-912-6326. There is a $3.50 service charge for tickets purchased over the telephone.

Museum hours are Tuesday-Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. The first Tuesday of each month is free; however, the $5 special exhibition fee still applies. There is a $2 discount upon presentation of a valid MUNI Fast Pass or transfer.

The new de Young

Founded in 1895 in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park, the de Young museum has been an integral part of the cultural fabric of the city and a cherished destination for millions of residents and visitors to the region for over 100 years. On 15 October 2005, the de Young museum re-opened in a new facility designed by the Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron and Fong & Chan Architects in San Francisco. The new de Young provides San Francisco with a landmark art museum to showcase the museum's significant collections of American art from the 17th through the 20th centuries, modern and contemporary art, art from Central and South America, the Pacific and Africa, and an important and diverse collection of textiles.

[Website:

www.dexigner.com/design_events/9515.html

]